Freeman encountered difficulties in getting the book published, having been told that there was "no such thing as Welsh food" and that it was "an absurd title" for a serious work.

It has a recipe for Welsh salt duck served with creamed onion sauce (wonderful, and a match for French confit any day); and oyster sausages - which I am most keen to try - in which the shucked and poached oysters are chopped with herbs, cooked egg yolks, anchovies, spices and a little shredded suet, then shaped, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried in butter.

These sound more like titbits Burton Racey or Ray White might use to amuse the mouth with, than recipes inspired by "the manuscript book compiled by Merryell Williams, Ystumcolywyn, early 18th century, in the Peniarth collection, National Library of Wales.

Freeman realised a 20-year dream when she edited The First Principles of Good Cookery, by Augusta Hall, Baroness Llanover.

Originally published in London by Richard Bentley in 1867 this was the only Welsh cookery book written in English at that time.

Though 100 years separate us, I feel we are fellow-spirits, pioneers both, destined to annoy as well as please with our innovatory cookery notions.Freeman went on to write eight books on Welsh cuisine.

In 1982 Freeman established a Welsh Cookery Centre in the River Teifi valley, near Cardigan, after having spent ten years living in Cardiff.