Casaquin

A casaquin is a short-length closely fitted coat[1] worn by middle- and upper-class women during the 18th century.

[2][5] Casaquins were worn by a range of females—from working-class women (for practical purposes) to upper-class ladies (for social or ceremonious occasions).

[2] A casaquin had the design and fit of a dress however was much shorter in length, finishing at the hip, to be worn as a sort of jacket.

[12] The raw materials for silk production were sourced internationally, predominantly from China, the West Indies, North American and Africa.

[13] Silk mills were powered by water during this time, the largest located in Derby England which was operated by a crew of 300 utilising the River Derwent.

[16] Lace was still a smaller industry with the majority of its production taking place within the homes of low-income agricultural families.

[7] The casaquin was also worn to accentuate the features of the ideal body type that was coveted during this time period,[5] this involved having a waist so small it was comparable to the handspan of a male.

[21] Casaquins in artwork show the wearer ranging from a lower-class kitchen maid to an upper-class lady dressed in formal wear.

Some casaquins included elaborate or extensive decoration meaning they were worn by more upper-class women to semi formal social events.

[1][7] Others were a much simpler design worn by middle-class women for every day wear or practical purposes for warmth.

During this period remaining fashionable in society's eyes was of utmost importance to many females as it defined their "social identification".

[23] It grew to the extent that some called for a way to identify social classes as some women would sacrifice the well-being of herself and family for clothes, Bernard Mandeville stating in the 18th century "The poorest Labourer's Wife in the Parish, who scorns to wear a strong wholesome Frize, as she might, will half starve herself and her Husband to purchase a second-hand Gown and Petticoat, ... because, forsooth, it is more genteel".

[23] The mechanisation of the textile industry as well as the increased trade during the later 18th century also meant varied designs of fabric were highly available, with finer and intricate patterns growing less rare.

[1] The Hindeloopen women from the Netherlands were inspired by the French casaquin after its popularity in the 18th century and adopted a similar style of decorated short jackets known as a "Kassekijntje".

[8] Similarly to the casaquin many of the designs were originally typical of indoor decor like furniture or wall hangings but became popularised for clothing within the 18th century.

This casaquin (1725–1740, Italian) jacket from the MET Museum features woollen embroidery of birds, pagodas, and exotic flowers. The flowers reflect on the chinoiseries style commonly used by designers throughout the 18th century. [ 5 ] The figures stitched which appear as Jesters can be described as Grotesque . [ 9 ] This is another style—also used commonly throughout the 18th century—in which figures were represented through distorted shapes creating a mysterious or even unpleasant image. This design represents the influence of the 17th-century designer Jean Berain . [ 5 ] The postures of the figures depicted are also identified as a symbol commonly used throughout the 18th century to represent the four continents . [ 10 ]
This casaquin (1700s, French) from the RISD Museum highlights an alternative use of casaquins. Its small size indicates it was not worn by a woman but rather used to decorate a religious sculpture. [ 11 ] The material consists of silk woven with metallic thread and a floral pattern. The closure and bottom of the garment are accessorised with metallic bobbin lace . [ 11 ]
This is another casaquin (1785, Italian) in the Met Museum collection. It features silk cuffed sleeves which mimicked the gentleman's sleeves of the time and a fitted back. [ 19 ]