Embroidery of India

Aari work involves a hook, plied from the top but fed by silk thread from below with the material spread out on a frame.

The other hand feeds the thread from the underside, and the hook brings it up, making a chainstitch, but it is much quicker than chainstitch done in the usual way: looks like machine-made and can also be embellished with sequins and beads - which are kept on the right side, and the needle goes inside their holes before plunging below, thus securing them to the fabric.there are many types of materials used like zari threads, embellishments,sequins etc.. Aari embroidery is practiced in various regions such as in Kashmir[3] and Kutch (Gujarat).

[4] Practiced by the Lambada[5] gypsy tribes of Andhra Pradesh, Banjara embroidery is a mix of applique with mirrors and beadwork.

Chamba embroidery has its own distinctive style, small squares or rectangles of clothe embroidered with untwisted silk threads.

[8] While this art style has declined over the years and almost been lost, in 2009 Lalita Vakil was given the Shilp Guru award for her ability and skill in Chamba embroidery.

[11] The present form of chikan (meaning elegant patterns on fabric) work is associated with the city of Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh.

The artisans usually create individual motifs or butis of animals and flowers (rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers).

Lengths of wider golden ribbons are stitched on the edges of the fabric to create an effect of gold zari work.

Gota-kinari practiced mainly in Jaipur, utilising fine shapes of bird, animals, human figures which are cut and sewn on to the material.it is very famous in rajasthan as well as in many other parts of the world.

It started as a method of making quilts, but the same type of embroidery can also be found on saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc.

[16] It is a raised zari metallic thread embroidery created by sewing flat stitches on cotton padding.

Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common themes.

The entire pattern is made with one or two embroidery stitches, and mainly chain stitch on a base of silk, wool and cotton: the colour is usually white, off-white or cream but nowadays one can find stoles and salwar-kameez sets in many other Colours such as brown, deep blue, sky blue, maroon and rani pink.

The samovar pattern is then filled up with intricate flowers and leaves and twigs; Kashir-jaal which implies fine network of embroidery, particularly on the neckline and sleeves of a dress material.

Further styles include naala jaal which involves embroidery particularly on the neckline and chest/yoke: naala means neck in the Koshur dialect of Kashmiri language; jaama is a very dense embroidery covering the whole base fabric with a thick spread of vine/creepers and flowers, badaam and heart shapes, a variation of this form is neem-jaama, where neem means demi or half, because the embroidery is less dense, allowing a view of the fabric underneath; and jaal consisting of bel-buti: a fine and sparse net of vine/creepers and flowers.

Mukesh work (known also as badla or fardi), includes women making shiny stitches amid chikan embroidery using a needle and long, thin strips of metal.

the most famous rural embroidery tradition of Punjab, mentioned in the Punjabi folklore of Heer Ranjha by Waris Shah.

Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright coloured threads that cover it completely, leaving no gaps.

[27] Famous for Phulkari are the cities of [28] Amritsar,[28] Jalandhar,[28] Ambala,[28] Ludhiana,[28] Nabha,[28] Jind,[28] Faridkot,[28] and Kapurthala.

[30] Ludhiana and Amritsar are known for embroidery using white, silver and gold threads on clothes such as chogas and waistcoats (phatuhi).

It is called Chandua based on patchwork: brightly coloured and patterned fabric pieces are sewn together on a plain background mostly velvet along with Mirror and lace work.

Nowadays different home décor items can be found, such as lamp shades, garden umbrellas and bed covers and utility products like Hand bags, Wallets, Files.

This very colourful embroidery style, using stark contrast was traditionally used only for garments, but now it can be found on bags, accessories, home furnishings, etc.

Designs include not only flowers and fruit and animals such as parrots and elephants, but also temples, women carrying pots, and the ubiquitous mango shape.

[35] This ornamentation method originated in Persia during 13th century and involves little pieces of mirror in various sizes which are encased in the decoration of the fabric first by interlacing threads and then with buttonhole stitch.

[36] The most opulent form of Indian embroidery is the Zari and the Zardozi or Zardosi, known since the late 16th century, brought in India by the Moghuls.

Metal ingots were melted and pressed through perforated steel sheets to convert into wires, which then were hammered to the required thinness.

Zardozi is either a synonym or a more elaborate version of zari where the gold or silver embroidery is embellished with pearls and precious stones, gota and kinari, making this art only affordable by rich people.