In 1891, Gerald Fox, an Englishman who had “discovered” skiing in Scandinavia,[3] approached Hans and his brother Ruedi asking whether they would like to try this new sport.

Eager for any adventure, the two teenagers were soon climbing the lower part of the Wengeralp with skis and single ski-poles, so that they could zoom down to Grindelwald on the snow.

[4] After rigorous study, practical experience as a porter, as well as written and oral examinations, Kaufmann earned his climbing license on 24 June 1895, at the age of 21.

Christian Almer, (1826-1898), who planned to celebrate his golden wedding anniversary with an ascent of the Wetterhorn, asked Kaufmann to serve as porter.

A high wind and intense cold prevented a long or convivial stay, but the weather was otherwise good and Almer's friends in Grindelwald could see the party being photographed on the summit.

During the early years for his career, Kaufmann guided clients to the summits of the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, the Mettenberg, and Blüemlisalp (3,661 m / 12,011 ft), frequently crossing glaciers (e.g. Eismeer, and resting at alpine huts (Gleckstein, Bergli, Concordia).

"[8] Although his brother Christian had arrived in Canada with Edward Whymper and three other guides in June 1901, Hans Kaufmann travelled to the Rockies independently a month later.

[9] They also made an unsuccessful attempt to climb Mount Hungabee, turning back 100 feet before the summit because of darkness and snow conditions.

[10] In 1902, Kaufmann spent six weeks in the Rockies with J. Norman Collie,[11] Herman Woolley, Hugh E. M. Stutfield (1858-1929), and George M. Weed.

For eight weeks in July and August 1902, Christian Kaufmann guided James Outram, Collie's rival, to some of the highest peaks in Canadian Rockies.

"[14] Later in their journey, the group encountered a forest fire that Collie surmised might have been spitefully started by Outram by preventing Hans and the others from continuing.

[W]ith a tow-rope on the bank, when towing was practical and punting, pushing, paddling, and hauling for some hours, we gradually approached the further end of the lake.

Eastwards Mount Murchison came into view, a must imposing mass: in the opposite direction was Lyell glacier, withers attendant peaks and magnificent ice-fall brilliantly mirrored in the turquoise, or rather peacock-blue water.

"[15] On their return voyage, they attached a canvas pack-cover onto two poles, making a sail to move them across the lake: Dave [the team's lumberman] was at the helm and Hans at the prow.

"[18] Hans Kaufmann began his 1903 season by climbing Mount Stephen with Gouverneur Paulding (1829-1931), a member and secretary of the American Geological Society.

[19] However, Hans Kaufmann's most successful climb, together with his brother Christian and Herschel Clifford Parker (1862-1936), on 21 July 1903, was the first ascent of Mount Hungabee,[20] "a magnificent peak, for many years considered almost impossible, is probably the most difficult and dangerous summit ever ascended in Canada.

"[21] Parker later commented that they also climbed Mount Temple from Moraine Lake, where "Hans Kaufmann most kindly and ably assisted me in my scientific observations for the determination of altitude.

On 5 June 1904 Christian and Hans guided John Duncan Patterson, later the third president of the Alpine Club of Canada, to a first ascent of Mount Ball (3,311 m /10,863 ft).

In 1904, at the Chalet Lake Louise, the brothers also met Gertrude Emily Benham, an English mountaineer and traveler, who had climbed many Alpine peaks in her youth with her father.

Stephen, reaching the top at 7:30 PM, and, finally, descending after dark to the town of Field, arriving at 3:00 AM, 27 hours after leaving Lake Louise.

From September 1904 to August 1905, Hans Kaufmann was back in Switzerland guiding such clients as Stephen H. Pickering and Josephine Elston to the summit of the Schreckhorn.

Hans later spent three weeks guiding Elston to the top of the Eiger, Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn, Schreckhorn, Monte Rosa, and Weisshorn,[32] before he climbed with her in Britain.

[33][34] During a fireside gathering of the 1910 encampment of the Canadian Alpine Club, Wedgwood spoke about his earlier climbs with Kaufmann in Chile and Argentina.

In the employ of Josephine Elsdon (from London), he climbed the "classic route," including Nape's Needle and Pillar Rock, among several others.

Godfrey W. H. Ellis (1862-1932), an expert of in Alpine books and prints, climbed the Matterhorn, Dom, Monte Rosa, and Gabelhorn with Kaufmann in 1906 and 1911; and from 26 to 29 July 1910,[46] W. S. Jackson, author of the climbing notes in the Canada Baedeker, joined Hans and his brothers (Peter, Rudolf, and Christian in reaching the Eiger and Schreckhorn summits.

"[49] This comment was high praise from someone who was just completing a seminal work on the history, tools and techniques of alpine climbing, L'alpinisme (1917).

[55] In fact, Gerald Fox, who had introduced skiing to Grindelwald in 1891 and who had inspired Hans and his brother Ruedi to try the sport, visited the village in 1926 with his own children.

Aside from Marion P. Raymond and Josephine Elsdon in earlier years, he guided members of the Ladies Alpine Club, such as Elaine Huth from 1924 to 1929.

[67] At his funeral, Dr. Paul Arni, who had frequently climbed with Hans, gave a eulogy that praised Kaufmann as a remarkable mountain guide of a passing generation, "a shining example of unconditional loyalty, efficiency and fearlessness in danger, noble and distinguished disposition who will leave lasting memory.

"[68] His passing was noted in the New York Times: "The world-famous Alpine guide, Hans Kaufmann, died yesterday at Grindelwald, Switzerland, after an operation for appendicitis.