Piz Bernina

[3] It rises 4,048 m (13,281 ft) and is located south of Pontresina in the Bernina Region and near the major Alpine resort of St. Moritz, in the Engadin valley.

The only other summit higher than 4,000 m (13,000 ft) is La Spedla (the Shoulder), a minor prominence south of the mountain, which is also the highest point on the Italian side of the massif.

[5] Most of the range belongs to the Austroalpine nappes, a tectonic unit whose rocks come from the Apulian plate, a small continent which broke away from Africa (Gondwana) before the Alpine orogeny.

The first ascent was made via the east ridge in 1850 by the 28-year-old topographer Johann Wilhelm Coaz (1822–1918, from S-Chanf) and his assistants, the brothers Jon and Lorenz Ragut Tscharner.

They traversed the Labyrinth (on the Morteratsch Glacier) and headed to the Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza, a col between the Crast' Agüzza and Piz Bernina.

They reached the summit at around 6 p.m.[6] Johan Coaz wrote in his diary: In 1866, the south ridge running from La Spedla was climbed by Francis Fox Tuckett and F. A. Y.

The first attempt to climb the northern ridge, the Biancograt, was made on 12 August 1876 by Henri Cordier and Thomas Middlemore with guides Johann Jaun and Kaspar Maurer.

To win a bet worth 200 CHF, Hermann Buhl reached the summit of Piz Bernina from the Boval hut in 6 hours; he then descended the north ridge in only 15 minutes, establishing a record.

Piz Bernina on the Swisstopo map of the same name
Piz Bernina and the Morteratsch Glacier
Spherical Panorama from Piz Bernina
( view as a 360° interactive panorama )
Panorama from Diavolezza. From left to right: Piz Palü , Bellavista , Crast' Agüzza (small rocky peak in the middle), Piz Bernina and Piz Morteratsch