Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (/huːˈseɪn tʃəˈlaɪən/; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan [hyseˈjin tʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 August 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion designer.

[6] His graduate collection in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained clothes which he had buried in a backyard[7] and exhumed just before the show where they were presented with an accompanying text that explained the process.

[9][10] Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows are characterised by minimal sets and a mood of suspense, incorporating elements of contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and geometric structures.

[13] His collection Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of the way in which he directed the relationship between his garments and the body, and his use of architectural proportions to amplify their interplay with their surroundings.

[8] In his collection Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of varying lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift of erogenous zones around the female body arising in response to changing ideals.

The models were distorted into generic shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top of the head and faces and bodies swathed in black to obscure their identity.

He also mimicked aeroplane interiors by attaching padded headrests to dresses This project was based on exploring the relationship of the body's inherent mobility and aimed to evoke thoughts on speed, spatiality and well-being.

[8] This collection also featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered at the Hyères Festival in France in 2000 and clearly illustrated Chalayan's interest in technology.

[8] However Chalayan does not merely illustrate the situation, he challenges the historical context in which the immigrants had to leave behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of the objects.

[17] TSE's decision not to renew his contract caused further financial difficulties as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into voluntary liquidation.

[18] Subsequently, he restructured his company and staged a comeback collection in 2001 without a catwalk presentation,[19] and designed for high-street label Marks and Spencer to make ends meet.

[27] After going through financial woes including having to move his studio three times and working from home with his team in-between, he announced plans to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.

[29] In early 2008 Chalayan designed a series of laser LED dresses in collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.

[32] The designer also collaborated with German hosiery and legwear label Falke to produce one-off footwear pieces for his Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased in Paris.

Apart from his fashion collections Chalayan has also been renowned for his short movies such as Absent Presence which represented Turkey at the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Mode Natie in Antwerp in 2002.

1993 Airmail Dress, paper designed to fold into an airmail envelope and be mailed. [ 11 ]
Sculpted tulle dresses displayed at the Design Museum in 2009.
Coffee-table skirt, 2000.