Jibba

The Mahdī decreed that all his followers should wear the patched jibba, a version of the muraqqa’a worn by Sufi mendicants, which symbolises the wearer's commitment to a religious way of life.

[2] The ascetic symbolism of the patched garment was appropriate to the Mahdist aim to restore strict Islamic standards to Sudan, which they felt had been corrupted by the appointment of European and American Christians into positions of power by the Ottoman-Egyptian government.

The patches symbolised both a dedication to a religious way of life and, as the war progressed, came to denote the military rank and division of the wearer.

The rule that all followers of the Mahdī should wear the jibba had the advantage of removing traditional visual markers which differentiated potentially fractious tribes, thus enforcing unity and cohesion amongst his forces.

However, after the Mahdist victory at the Siege of Khartoum, stocks of wool were taken from the city ruins and much of this fabric was used to make and repair patches.

[6] In the collection of the Musée du quai Branly in Paris, there is a jibba with red and black embroidered patches and an inscription under the armpits saying "This tunic should be put on with pride and wisdom.

"[13] As well as having military and religious significance, textiles played a diplomatic, albeit unsuccessful role in the conflicts during the Mahdist War.

The Mahdi and the Governor-General of Sudan, Charles George Gordon, sent presents of clothing to one another, hoping to encourage their opponent to stand down.

[16][17] Rudolf Carl von Slatin, a former prisoner of the Mahdist forces, was freed in 1895 and was subsequently photographed styled as an Anṣār soldier, wearing a patched jibba, which might have been plundered from a recent battlefield.

This exhibition explored the history of the Madhya period in Sudan by drawing on the museum’s unique collection of Sudanese artefacts, documents and photographs.

In Britain, the siege of Khartoum and resulting death of General Charles Gordon of the Royal Engineers are the most famous episodes in this history.

[21] In the late 13th century, it referred to a man's loose jacket and had been introduced from Old French jupe, which had meant a "tunic worn under the armor.