Obi (sash)

Originating as a simple thin belt in Heian period Japan, the obi developed over time into a belt with a number of different varieties, with a number of different sizes and proportions, lengths, and methods of tying.

Obi are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use, and can be made of a number of types of fabric, with heavy brocade weaves worn for formal occasions, and some lightweight silk obi worn for informal occasions.

Though obi can be inexpensive when bought second-hand, they typically cost more than a kimono, particularly when purchased brand-new.

[2] The mode of attaching the sleeve widely to the torso part of the garment would have prevented the use of wider obi.

When the sleeves of the kosode began to grow in both horizontal width and vertical length at the beginning of the Edo period, the obi widened as well.

[1] At the end of the 18th century, it was fashionable for a woman's kosode to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house.

Contemporary women's kimono are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called the ohashori.

Tatsumura Textile located in Nishijin in Kyoto is a centre of obi manufacture today.

The technique nishijin-ori, traditionally produced in the Nishijin area of Kyoto, is intricately woven and can have a three dimensional effect, costing up to 1 million yen.

[5][6][7] The Kimono Institute was founded by Kazuko Hattori in the 20th century and teaches how to tie an obi and wear it properly.

Sagemono is a general term for bags and boxes for cigarettes, pipes, ink, brushes, etc.

Inro, which originated in the Sengoku period, were first used as practical goods, but after the middle of the Edo period, when inro were gorgeously decorated with various lacquer techniques such as maki-e and raden, samurai and wealthy merchants competed to collect them and wore them as accessories with kimono.

Nowadays, inro are rarely worn as kimono accessories, but there are collectors all over the world.

In the modern day, a number of ties and accessories are used to keep the kimono in place, with the obi functioning in a more decorative capacity.