Sokutai

The sokutai originated in the Heian period, and consists of a number of parts, including the ho (outer robe), shaku (笏), a flat ritual baton or sceptre, and the kanmuri (冠), a cap-shaped black lacquered silk hat with a pennon.

The Japanese emperor's court dress is made up of loose-fitting white trousers and a loose yellow outer robe that is styled after a Chinese robe but is tucked in at the waist, and decorated with the textile pattern consist of Fenghuang, Paulownia, Bamboo and Kirin.

[2][3] a:Kanmuri (冠) b:Hō (袍) c:Kazari Tachi (飾太刀) d:Shaku (笏) e:Hirao (平緒) f:Shitagasane (下襲) g:Omote Bakama (表袴) h:Ōkuchi Bakama (大口袴) Similarly to the jūnihitoe, the sokutai uses colour symbolism, though unlike the jūnihitoe, colours are more restricted, specifically denoting court rank: Persons without rank typically wear mud brown or light yellow; the darker, fuller shade of yellow was reserved for the emperor.

Similarly to the jūnihitoe, which used a white kosode and a pair of red hakama as a base layer, both of these would have been worn as both undergarments and sleeping clothes.

The shitagasane, a typically white garment with the characteristic "tail" of the sokutai, was worn on top of the akome, covering the upper body of the wearer.

Sokutai of the Heian Period (794-1185)
Newly-wed Emperor Naruhito , then Crown Prince, wearing the princely sokutai Ōni no Hō [ ja ] and holding a shaku , 9 June 1993