Pattern grading

[1] Standard grading rules are based upon ergonomic measurements of the body, mathematically extrapolated or interpolated according to one of numerous pattern making systems.

(These are typically copied on to a durable medium such as oak tag paper or vinyl, and are referred to as "card sets" in the trade.)

[3] Historically, the science of grading developed with the advent of the tape measure, the introduction of scientific tailoring systems, commercial patterns and the mass-production of pattern-built clothing in the 19th century.

[4][5]: 130–131  To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each piece needed to be graded, meaning systematically increased or decreased.

[5]: 130–131  The Mathematical Art was translated into English by J. Happle-Hutcheson as Dr. Wampen's World Renowned System of Anthropometry as Simplified and Americanized in 1842, and remained in print into the 20th century [6] Prior to this, sewing patterns were made to fit a specific individual, and were originally made on cloth, and only later on paper.

[citation needed] The advent of large-scale production of graded, practical and easier to use sewing patterns came in 1863.