Schreckhorn

The highest peak of the Bernese Alps, the Finsteraarhorn, lies 6 km to the south.

'The ambition of hoisting the first flag on the Schreckhorn, the one big Bernese summit which was untrodden, was far too obvious for us to resist', Desor later wrote, but they climbed a secondary summit of the Lauteraarhorn by mistake.

The first ascent by the south-west ridge (AD+) – the normal route by which the Schreckhorn is climbed – was made by John Wicks, Edward Branby and Claude Wilson on 26 July 1902.

They decided to climb the very steep ridge without the help of local guides and succeeded in reaching the summit.

The north-west ridge (the Andersongrat, D) was first climbed by John Stafford Anderson and George Percival Baker, with guides Ulrich Almer and Aloys Pollinger on 7 August 1883.

View of the Schreckhorn from the Eismeer station on the Jungfraujoch railway
The north-east flanks of the Lauteraarhorn (left centre) and the Schreckhorn (right centre) as seen from the Diamantstock