Tartarium

In Dante's time, the term "Tartar cloths" referred to rich fabrics of Oriental origin that were brought through Tartary from China and its borders.

[2][1] Marco Polo, a Venetian merchant who lived from 1254 to 1324, identified Nasich and Naques as types of textiles made using gold, and Tartarium was one among the examples.

[3] As per the glossary that accompanies the "Liber Custumarum" and the wardrobe account of RIC III, the fabric known as Tartaryn, which was utilized as a lining material, was composed of a blend of linen and wool.

[4] The wardrobe accounts of Edward III of England indicate that "Tars" was an expensive item, as exemplified by the entry detailing a blue tartaryn jupon embellished with silver buckles, pendants, and garters.

In medieval Europe, cloth and fabrics infused with gold and silver threads were favored by royal figures and important religious leaders for their ceremonial attire, costly decorations, and hangings.

These textiles were known by different names such as ciclatoun, tartarium, naques or nac, baudekin or baldachin (Bagdad), and tissue, and typically incorporated gold threads in conjunction with other materials.

Fig. 23 : Small-patterned Tartar-style textiles are worn by Angel Gabriel in the Annunciation by Simone Martini (1333).