Thalassery cuisine

The Thalassery cuisine refers to the distinct cuisine from Thalassery city of northern Kerala, which has blended in Arabian, Persian, Indian and European styles of cooking as a result of its long history as a maritime trading post.

[4] Influences of Arabian and Mughal cultures are evident, especially in the dishes of the Muslim community, though they have also become popular generally.

The two are clearly distinct: the former has Mughlai-Arab, Portuguese, British, Dutch, and French influences and the latter includes a mix of Kerala traditional dishes rich in coconut, as well as various recipes of Syrian, Jewish, Dutch, Portuguese and British origin.

Some typical examples include ari pathiri, chatti pathiri, coin porottas, kallummakaya (mussels) fry, arikkadukka (stuffed fried mussels) and biryanis with chicken, mutton, prawns, fish and egg, as well as sweeteners such as aleesa[11] and Kadalapparippu ada.

[16] The green mussels' popularity led farmers to employ aquaculture in local rivers to increase supplies.

Thalassery biryani may have come to the region because of the influence of the Muslim rulers of Mysore and Arkot.

[30] Thalassery biryani is a cultural embodiment and is reminiscent of foreign influences in Malabar; it is a reminder of the Mughal-Arab cultural influence in North Kerala due to the trade that lasted for many centuries before the 1900s and the emigration to the Middle East of locals from the 1970s onwards.

[31] Thalassery sea port was an export trade centre for spices where a convergence of European, Arab and Malabar cultures occurred.

Perumal is believed to have left Kerala from an erstwhile feudal province in the region named Poyanad (Poya Nadu, "The province from whence he left") which lies in between the Thalassery and Kannur taluks (governed by local chieftains named Randuthara Achanmar before 1947).

In the ancient times, Thalassery—an erstwhile seaport in North Malabar—was geographically in the convergence point of three regional provinces, Chirakkal, Kottayam and Kadathanad.

It was also the end point of the "Perya pass" coming from the eastern hilly areas of Coorg and Wayanad making it an important trade center of spices in Malabar.

[37] Arab traders, Arkot rulers and the invasion of Sultanate of Mysore were other important factors which introduced and developed various Islamic culture in the region.

[41] The ingredients included rice, maida, wheat and there was extensive use of ghee (clarified butter) and oils for preparation.

Most of these dishes are non-vegetarian; chicken, mutton, lamb and beef are used but pork is not consumed due to religious regulations.

[42] In Islamic food culture non-vegetarian dishes must be halal-compliant,[43][C] as required for Muslims by religious directive.

Malabar Mappila dishes are preferred by some societies to be compliant with the halal method of food processing.

Thalassery biryani uses a unique, fragrant, small-grained, thin rice variety named kaima [44] or jeerakasala [ml].

[47] Ghee rice is blended with masala using the dum process (a method of cooking by sealing a lid tightly and placing hot charcoal on it).

Meat is cooked with masala on slow fire; it is layered with rice and the lid of the container is sealed with maida dough or a loin cloth.

[68] Fried Indian anchovy or smelt[n 34] can be served as a starter if required and this is garnished with chopped onion, curry leaves and lime juice squeezed over it.

[69] Daahashamani[n 35] is an ayurvedic medicine and natural thirst reliever and digestive aid prepared by mixing dry ginger[n 36], cardamom, cloves, coriander seeds, mimosa catechu[n 37], sapanwood[n 38], vetiver[n 39], puncturevine[n 40] and sandal wood, it is usually available in local markets.

[70][71] Thalassery biryani is popular and is often served in Malabar in weddings and other celebrations and parties, and is an unavoidable dish for the Muslim community.

Even though sadya is the traditional cuisine for Hindu weddings in the region, some Hindus and Christians often serve biryani, mainly because it is easier to prepare than other main course dishes and is a complete food that avoids the extra effort of making curry.

The film is about a restaurant that specialises in Malabar cuisines made without adulteration and based on traditional recipes.

Thalassery biryani prepared
Aleesa (അലീസ), a sweet Ramadan dish that fuses Arabian and Malabar cuisine; in the past, Malabari people introduced this dish even to Karachi , now in Pakistan
Persian faloodeh
Kallummakkaya nirachathu or arikkadukka ( mussels stuffed with rice)
Thalassery biryani with thairu
Short-grained thin kaima / jeerakasala rice (left) and long-grained thin basmati rice (right)— kaima / jeerakasala is used to make Thalassery biryani
Thalassery biryani at dining
Thairu —made from curd, salad (onion, tomato, skinless green cucumber), ginger, mint leaves and curry leaves—is often served with Thalassery biryani
Coconut-mint chammandi ( biryani chutney )