Harrod serves a menu using locally produced meat and vegetables along with foraged ingredients such as charlock, hedge bedstraw and pennywort.

Harrod explained "Turnips don't deserve their unloved image, they add a wonderful freshness to a dish.

"[10] The signature of the restaurant is a suckling pig themed dish, incorporating a pork shoulder which is cooked over two days in a bain-marie, served with shallot and mugwort.

This is accompanied by a croquette made from pig's head and a pork cutlet with celeriac, pear, sorrel and cauliflower mushrooms.

[4] The restaurant serves breakfast to residents staying in the rooms, which includes Trealy Farm produced sausages and bacon.

[11] It remained in use as a small public house, until it was extensively refurbished and reopened as a high quality restaurant.For a number of years it was owned by the Jackson brothers.

John Jackson had previously been a sommelier at La Gavroche for around 6 years and presented the public face of the Crown, while his brother was chef.

[20] Harrod had previously worked under Raymond Blanc at two Michelin starred restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons.

[19] Victor Lewis-Smith reviewed the restaurant for The Guardian in 2005, thought that a spring onion risotto accompaniment to a pan fried seabass tasted so good that it would have been sufficient as a main course itself and was also quite pleased that crêpe suzette was served on a trolley for table side service.

It lies off a narrow lane winding between steepling, canopied hills in an odd corner between Monmouth and Chepstow.

In spite of its lost world location, the Crown has been a beacon of gastronomic adventure for at least 30 years – those with long memories will recall Stephen Bull carving out his reputation here.

In lesser hands, such a meal could be not so much a car crash as a multiple pile-up, but it is not, because the ingredients are handled with originality, assurance and, more importantly, a keen sense of pleasure.

"[26] Tony Naylor, writing for The Guardian in 2016, said that the menu featured unusual ingredients which complement each other resulting in "astonishing depths of flavour".