Ghagra choli

In contemporary and modern usage lehenga choli is the widely used term by fashion designers, trend setters, and boutiques in India, since ghagra is synonymous with the half-slip (petticoat) worn as an undergarment below the sari.

It evolved from the ancient Stanapatta (also known as Kanchuki) and is cut to fit tightly around the body with its short sleeves and low neck.

Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras that reached down to ankles, especially in the Hindi belt.

The most common style since early medieval times was to pleat the dupatta on one end, so it could be anchored by tucking it into the front waist of the gagra.

The loose end is then wrapped across the waist and/or draped diagonally across the upper body to fall over the shoulder, or up and over to cover the head.

The Ghagri-Choli are made of a number of fabrics such as silk, cotton, khadi,[9] georgette, crape, net, satin, brocade and chiffon.

Lehengas come with a wide variety of decoration and embroidery work like Gota, Phulkari, Shisha, Chikankari, Zari, Zardozi, Nakshi, Kundan, etc.

The Garacia Jats are experts in tiny embroidery on the yoke, which intermingles with red, orange, blue and green threads.

The Dhanetah Jats love embroidering broad pear-shaped mirrors using orange, black, yellow and red in chain stitch.

[9] The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel worn during festivals, weddings or special events in India.

[15] Traditional Rogan hand painted (by Ashish Kansara) and embroidered Chaniya choli wear of festival and wedding in Gujarat.

In southern India, coming of age ceremony or rites of passage (langa voni Telugu: లంగా వోని, Pattu Pavadai Tamil: பட்டு பாவாடை, Laṅga Davaṇi Kannada: ಲಂಗ ದವಣಿ) are celebrated when a girl reaches puberty.

The upper part is called choli, and is made of the same fabric as of the lehanga, but it is not uncommon to find the two pieces of the garment in different colours.

Women in ghagra choli, c. 1872
Gupta-period depiction of women in ancient form of gagra and long choli, 320 CE–550 CE, Uttar Pradesh, India.
Woman in traditional style of gagra choli worn in the Hindi belt .
Illustration of different regional variations of ghagra choli worn by women in India
Woman in gagra and long front covering choli tied at the back
Traditional Rogan painting Ghagra choli, hand painted by Ashish Kansara
Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. c.1760