Its economic activities have historically developed in line with this environment, from fishing on the river to vine-growing on the hillsides, the automotive and aeronautics industries along the Seine, and, since the creation of the La Défense business center in the neighboring towns of Courbevoie and Puteaux, the headquarters of major corporations.
From the mid-19th century onwards, the face of Suresnes changed radically, with the arrival of the train, tramway, and navigation services on the Seine: the town was now within easy reach of Parisians, who flocked to the guinguettes lining its quays, often after attending the races at the nearby Longchamp racecourse.
Disused, the château was demolished and the site subdivided, but the park was redeveloped and opened to the public in 1988 under the name “Parc du Château.”[84][85][86] In 1647, the monks of Saint-Germain asked the King to clarify their property, to avoid the risks associated with confused inheritances and territorial mutations.
[126] The urban planning of the period set the tone for the future development of Suresnes, as the gardens of the middle-class residences would later become undeveloped land, making it possible to build the Jules-Ferry school and municipal warehouse (to the west), the boulevard Henri-Sellier (to the south) and the town hall and its annexes (to the north) at the end of the 19th century.
This trade, in addition to the land it owns (particularly in Val d'Or), brings Suresnes a modest income, but it does enable it to maintain certain buildings at community expense (such as the presbytery and the school), guard the farmland, employ the carillonneur, and pay for the town's defense in trials in which it is involved.
Among the personalities associated with Suresnes at the time were Antoine François Fremin, a lawyer at Parliament and director of the Saint-Louis glassworks, and Jean-Rodolphe Perronet, a Suresnes-born engineer who designed the Neuilly bridge and founded the École nationale des ponts et chaussées.
[119] On the banks of the SeineThe Peace that victory bringsComes back to our charming roomsHappy inhabitants of SurèneYou can taste the first fruits.In 1713, the Elector of Bavaria Maximilien-Emmanuel spent a few months in Suresnes, giving parties in an estate (destroyed in a bombardment in 1870, but its ruins survived long afterward, at the entrance to rue du Calvaire in Saint-Cloud).
In 1715, he returned to Bavaria, accompanied by his secretary Frantz Vilhem de Jarzt, who, in memory of this episode, had a castle built in the small village of Schwabing (near Munich), which he called “Suresne” (or Werneckschlößl), later incorporated into the Bavarian capital and used as an administrative building.
[note 19][171][172][173] Forgotten, the 1793 monument was destroyed in 1868, the mayor of the time stating that it “had no historical value.”[174][175] On December 10, 1793, the municipality organized a celebration in honor of Marat and Lepeletier, attended by representatives of popular societies from neighboring towns; a brazier was built, where symbols of feudalism were burned, and a tree of liberty was planted in Place de l'Église.
With the bell no longer ringing in the mornings, leading to the inhabitants being awakened, a carillon was put back in place, but renamed “le réveil des sans-culottes.” The municipality defended certain citizens from the death penalty but remained merciless towards those who did not wear the tricolor cockade, demanding their incarceration.
[191] On April 26, 1802, he sent a letter to First Consul Napoleon Bonaparte, asking him to set up a seminary on Mont Valérien, as the commune's resources had diminished (although he downplayed their size) after the removal of the calvary; he had the agreement of the site's owner, Merlin de Thionville, for the sale, but the deal fell through.
[105] The Mount Valérien pilgrimage regained great popularity, attracting thousands of people during the Feasts of the Cross; King Charles X even climbed the mountain barefoot,[13] surrounded by young girls crowned with white flowers, banner-bearers, and Swiss guards.
However, the mayor was required to report the house numbers where the insurrection had found a foothold, with the sub-prefect noting that “this information must not be lost for the future.” For the rest of the revolution, the commune had to pay for the food of the men guarding the fort, as well as the bread of the workers employed in the national workshops.
[239] The urban structure of Suresnes continued to change: in addition to the destruction of the Rothschild estate, in 1854 Pagès gave up his neighboring property, whose park was parcelled out, with the northern part of the commune becoming constructible (a request for the establishment of a candle factory was made as early as December).
The arrival of the Germans and the routed French troops had a very tangible impact on Suresnes: “In carts, disarmed, disheveled and discouraged, the survivors of Sedan made their way to Versailles, where the sad debris of our fine regiments was being collected,” wrote G. Moussoir, author of Six mois au Mont Valérien.
[279] Among the trades typical of Suresnes' bygone days were, in addition to winegrowers, laundry workers (between the end of the 18th century and 1914, they formed an important guild, with a clientele that was essentially Parisian) and feeders (fewer in number, they raised cows in enclosed cowsheds, or vacheries, until urbanization caused them to disappear).
In the garden of the historicist-style château he had built by architect Denis Darcy on the site of the former Clos-des-Seigneurs in the 1860s,[300] he had stored a large number of columns, sculptures, and statues salvaged from the ruins of the Tuileries Palace (burnt down during the Commune), which he had frequented as a result of working for Empress Eugénie.
The mayor declared at the ceremony: “This bell has rung enough error to now proclaim the truth.”[37] The event was disrupted by a few anti-Dreyfus supporters; one demonstrator was even arrested and, in the afternoon that followed, Camelots du roi tried to topple the bust set up in Place Trarieux.
[...] I wouldn't want to pass, at midnight, in front of the bronze blessed by this scoundrel.”[345] On its pedestal is engraved a phrase by Émile Zola, written during the Dreyfus Affair: “One day, France will be grateful to me for having saved its honor.”[86] The decision was nevertheless taken to build a new church, the Cœur-Immaculé-de-Marie, whose foundation stone was laid by Cardinal Richard on December 15, 1907.
Among the stained-glass windows created between 1907 and 1911, several by Calor and inspired by drawings by Henri Brémont, pay tribute to the life and history of Suresno, particularly in terms of religion (ascent of the Calvary, winegrowers' processions on Saint-Vincent, Saint Geneviève, Marguerite Naseau, etc.).
Anyone who has not lived through those hours, who has not seen, as we did, the boulevards on the evening of November 11th, is unaware of the explosion of joy of an entire people freed from a bloody nightmare of four years, and intoxicated by the legitimate pride of victory.” 523 Suresnois died in the war, their names inscribed on a monument in the Voltaire cemetery.
[370][371] A map of the Seine made by Father Jean Delagrive, the king's geographer, in 1731 mentions the existence of two bassiers, “river bottoms raised by sand and stones”: the Marinet (from the Saint-Cloud bridge to the Avre aqueduct) and the Muret (at the southernmost tip of the Ile de Puteaux).
[402] The choice of street names for the garden city was based on the following perspective, as expressed by the mayor at the city council meeting of March 22, 1932: “The municipality wished to pay tribute to the thinkers and statesmen of all religions and nationalities who, over the centuries up to the present tragic era, have held out to humanity the torch that should guide it towards definitive peace and the fraternity of peoples.” Sully, Grotius, William Penn, Father de Saint-Pierre, Romain Rolland, Jean Jaurès, Léon Bourgeois, d'Estournelle de Constant, Woodrow Wilson, Frank Billings Kellogg, Louis Loucheur (many Suresnois benefited from his law to build pavilions)[403] and Gustav Stresemann.
As far back as 1920, the General Council had already prepared projects in line with Henri Sellier's thinking: “It is obvious that a development plan for a suburban commune can only have rational formulas in conjunction with those of neighboring communes.” For Suresnes, this concerns its relations with Saint-Cloud, Rueil, Nanterre and Puteaux.
A development plan was adopted by the city council on October 30, 1927, confirming old ideas: no longer tolerate unhealthy or inconvenient businesses in the collective housing zone, and regulate the height of buildings to ensure that each side of the streets gets plenty of sunlight.
In July, a parade of thirteen floats decorated by local associations is held, with the Historical Society presenting, for example, one, the “Vieille Maison suresnoise,” featuring a hearth and a wine press, with old winegrowers in traditional costume, and another, the “Guinguette,” where bohemians and grisettes dance and sing under an arbor.
For the occasion, the Comité des fêtes and the Société historique help evoke the history of Suresnes by erecting the towers of the old “Porte de Dessus-l'Eau” at the beginning of Rue du Pont; a well of love is also reinstalled, along with old houses and poternes in the Saint-Leufroy district.
[453] Evoking the western suburbs of Paris, marked by the geography of the Seine, writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline wrote, following the boats passing on the river from his belvedere in Meudon: “From my attic, I can see her name, her number, her laundry to dry, her man at the helm...
[498] Inaugurated in 1973, the Salvador Allende stadium was the mayor's way of paying tribute to his Chilean friend, the victim of a coup d'état that same year; in 1983, to commemorate the 40th anniversary of Jean Moulin's death, the sports facility was renamed after the resistance fighter.
In his mind, the aim was “to breathe new life into Suresnes, to maintain and reinforce its modern, urban, Parisian, village and provincial character.” To this end, an action plan has been launched to attract new businesses and encourage the creation of small and medium-sized craft industries.
Suresnes motto inscribed on the facade of the
Paul Langevin
high school: “No one leaves Surenne who often does not return there.”
[
note 1
]
Location of Suresnes in the inner suburbs of Paris.
Plaque on
Avenue de la Fontaine-du-Tertre
, in homage to the old spring.
Painting by
Pierre Puvis de Chavannes
,
L'enfance de Sainte Geneviève
(between 1874 and 1876), depicting the saint as a child on Mont Valérien, in homage to the legend that she grazed her sheep there.
[
note 3
]
[
22
]
Suresnes vineyards in contemporary times: they currently extend over only one hectare, almost all of the former wine-growing land having been urbanized since the 19th century.
Stained glass window in the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary depicting the founding of the first church in
Suresnes
.
Plaque on the Saint-Leufroy promenade, in the district where the old church was located.
The Saint-Leufroy chapel, whose name recalls the thousand-year-old church of Suresnes destroyed in 1906.
King
Henry IV
, who legend associates with Suresnes: he is said to have come there because he was attracted to its wine and to the young
Gabrielle d'Estrées
, who became his mistress.
Stained glass window in the church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary depicting the Suresnes conferences.
Stained glass window in the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary depicting
Henry IV
abjuring
Protestantism
.
Plaque on the
Avenue des Conférences-de-Suresnes
, named in 1926
[
48
]
in homage to the negotiation conferences that contributed to the conclusion of peace between
Catholics
and
Protestants
.
The actress
Armande Béjart
lived for some time in a house on Mont Valérien.
The
Longchamp Abbey
, located on the other side of the Seine, in the current
Bois de Boulogne
, maintained very close links with Suresnes (in the background, Mont Valérien).
Plaque for
Rue du Port-aux-Vins
, at the end of which winegrowers used to load their produce before it sailed towards Paris.
Cast of a bas-relief from the tomb of Guillemette Faussart at the Museum of Transmissions, in the
fortress of Mont-Valérien
. The original is kept at the Suresnes museum.
[
103
]
A street also pays homage to the first female hermit of the mountain.
Plaque on
Place Marguerite-Naseau
, which commemorates the young nun raised in Suresnes.
The pilgrimage to Calvary on Mont Valérien, fresco located on rue Desbassyns-de-Richemont, reproducing one of the oldest representations of Suresnes and Mont Valérien (1664), attributed to
Israël Silvestre
: we can make out the
Longchamp abbey
at the bottom right, the Saint-Leufroy church and the village of Suresnes at the bottom left and the
Calvary
, with the three crosses, on the mount.
[
33
]
[
114
]
Suresnes and its surroundings on the
Cassini map
(1756).
Rare 18th-century house to remain in Suresnes, Place Henri-IV. It notably has projecting dormer windows.
[
131
]
Stained glass window in the church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary depicting the rose gardener from 1771.
[
note 13
]
Plaque on
Rue Desbassayns-de-Richemont
, in homage to Count Philippe Panon Desbassayns and his wife Eglé Mourgue.
[
136
]
Eglé Mourgue, Countess Desbassayns, and her son
Eugène
. She reestablished the title of rose-queen of Suresnes.
Suresnes Castle, near
Munich
, built after the stay of the Elector of Bavaria, great-uncle of King
Louis XV
, in
Suresnes
.
Plaque on
rue François-Bougault
, in homage to the first mayor of Suresnes.
Plaque on the site of the first town hall of Suresnes.
Engraving of the
Fête de la Fédération
held on July 14, 1790, in Paris, where part of the authorities of Suresnes went.
Place Henri-IV
today, a place of political demonstrations during the
Revolution
.
A
Chappe telegraph
(to the left of the military building) on Mount Valérien. Engraving from 1830.
Plaque on the
Chemin des Roses
, in memory of this flower which was cultivated in Suresnes.
Plaque on
rue Merlin-de-Thionville
, in homage to the politician of the Directory who lived at the top of Mont Valérien.
The Carnot cemetery, the oldest cemetery in the city still in operation.
The pediment of the “1812 building,” initially intended to decorate the church of
Charles Forbin-Janson
, now overlooks a military building.
The castle of Forbin-Janson, residence of the abbot who revived the pilgrimage during the Restoration.
Plaque on
Rue Pagès
, in homage to the mayor in office from 1830 to 1832.
Map of the Paris-Versailles railway (1839), which helped to open up Suresnes.
View from the hills of Suresnes, at the level of the railway line, offering a vast panorama of Paris to travelers of this new means of transport.
Engraving by Edmond Morin showing the ruins of
Longchamp Abbey
, with
Suresnes
and the
Calvary
of Mont Valérien in the background, before its conversion into a fortress.
The abandoned cemetery of Mont Valérien, within the fort, has been preserved as it was since the 1830s.
The fortress: these are the buildings erected in 1812, with new barracks being created behind them during the work in the 1840s.
Mont Valérien under construction in 1843, following the final destruction of the religious buildings. Note Chappe's telegraph at the top right.
The banker
Salomon de Rothschild
, whose Suresnes castle was destroyed during the revolution of 1848.
Plaque on
Rue Salomon-de-Rothschild
, which pays tribute to him, at the level of his former property.
Plaque on
Rue Fizeau
, which pays tribute to the physicist who carried out one of his scientific experiments in Suresnes.
Plaque on
Rue Gabriel-Philippe
, in homage to the mayor in office from 1850 to 1860.
Plaque on the
Edgar-Fournier alley
, in homage to the first historian of Suresnes.
Monument in the Voltaire cemetery, in memory of the soldiers of the war of 1870-1871, during which Suresnes was the site of several clashes.
The
La Valérie cannon
, located in the fort, fired on several Prussian positions.
Rue Cluseret
, formerly
Rue de la Groue
(a stony land favourable to wine growing)
[
256
]
renamed after this general of the Commune, born in Suresnes.
[
257
]
Plaque on
Rue Henri-Regnault
, a painter who died at the end of the conflict, near Suresnes.
Coteaux de Suresnes
, trees in bloom, canvas by Joseph Le Pan de Ligny. He is not the only one to have painted the vineyards of Suresnes, the painter
Constant Troyon
(whose canvases are preserved in the
Louvre
,
Orsay
, and Limoges museums) having also practiced there.
[
262
]
Auberge Au Père Lapin,
Boulevard Washington
, according to the old tradition of a navvy canteen,
[
265
]
establishment founded in 1861.
[
266
]
Stained glass window in the church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary depicting the winegrowers of Suresnes celebrating Saint Vincent's Day.
Staff map of Suresnes in
La deuxième année de géographie
by Pierre Foncin (1888): the fort of Mont Valérien and the communication routes are highlighted.
Former Suresnes post office and current headquarters of the municipal police,
Rue Carnot
, one of the first important buildings constructed at the start of the
Third Republic
.
Plaque on
Rue Huché
, in homage to the mayor Antoine Louis Huché, in office from 1871 to 1878.
Jules-Ferry School, the oldest school building still in operation in Suresnes.
The school
belfry
, which housed the clock from the Saint-Leufroy church (demolished in 1906) to sound the start of classes.
[
288
]
The new town hall (centre) and the village hall (right). The kiosk in the garden has since been replaced by a monument in homage to
Henri Sellier
.
Monumental door from 1864,
[
note 28
]
[
296
]
the last vestige of the initial property of the couturier Worth. It has two snails on its pediment, symbolizing the couturier's rise.
[
297
]
The Balsan pavilion, built by the couturier's son, became a building of the
Foch hospital
.
The market in 1905, with the Jules-Ferry school in the background and Mont Valérien at the top right.
Tomb of Mayor Arthème Genteur in the Voltaire cemetery (bust of Auguste Maillard).
The village hall, located along the town hall.
Fountain at the intersection of
Rue Raymond-Cosson
and
Rue de Montretout
, previously located on the market square.
Factories and their chimneys on the banks of the Seine.
Plaque on
Rue Alexandre-Darracq
, in homage to the industrialist who set up his bicycle and automobile factories in Suresnes.
Tomb of engineer Fernand Forest in the Voltaire cemetery, erected at municipal expense.
The mosaics of the former
Blériot Aéronautique
factory in Suresnes are exhibited in their original location (since 1917), even though the original building was destroyed in 2004.
[
326
]
The current building is partly occupied by the
Airbus
group and then,
[
326
]
since 2020, by the
SKEMA Business School
.
Radiotechnics factory in Suresnes in 1937.
Former
Coty
factory near the Seine, now the headquarters of Bel, after having been that of Havas.
View of the cemetery, with the chapel erected in the early 1930s.
Monument to the dead of the
First World War
in the fort. There is also a military square of soldiers in the Voltaire cemetery.
Suresnes quay, with the dam in the background.
Quai de Suresnes
, with the Île de Puteaux on the right, where the municipality owned land for a long period of the Ancien Régime.
The Suresnes pond, in the
Bois de Boulogne
, possible survival of the location of an island between Suresnes and the woods.
The races at
Longchamp
(engraving from 1860, with Mont Valérien at the top right) attract many Parisians on Sundays, who then quench their thirst in the guinguettes of Suresnes.
Postcard showing
Rue du Pont
, which has disappeared today, replaced by a shopping center.
Plan of the boat service between Suresnes and Maisons-Alfort (around 1900).
Plaque on
Avenue de la Belle-Gabrielle
, in the district where the former eponymous guinguette was located.
Engraving depicting Suresnes and Mont Valérien seen from the other bank of the Seine, with the suspension bridge on the right. The village still had a rural character at that time.
Boats on the Seine at Suresnes, in 1912.
The 1871 bridge, with one of the toll offices on the right and the Bois de Boulogne railway in the center.
The 1951 bridge, whose construction was interrupted during the Second World War, allows the two bridges to coexist side by side.
The interwar lock dam replaced that of the 1880s, which was considered insufficiently effective.
Old image of the Suresnes water treatment plant, one of the examples of cooperation between Suresnes and neighboring municipalities.
The factory today.
Facade of the former
Le Capitole cinema
, opened in 1925 and closed in 1985, now the Guillaume Tell studio.
[
430
]
The bust of Émile Zola is located in the garden of the eponymous college,
[
86
]
after having been installed on the
Place Trarieux
and in the square of the municipal library.
[
170
]
The Jean-Vilar theater (former Albert-Thomas center) in the garden city.
Participants in the 1931 European Rowing Championship on the Seine, in Suresnes.
The coat of arms of Suresnes is inspired by the flag of 1789.
The Saint-Louis chapel was built in 1938 for the inhabitants of the northern plateau.
[
437
]
Quai Gallieni
, where people from the Paris region leave on their exodus route.