Leavers machine

The Leavers machine was invented by John Levers [sic], a framesmith and setter-up of Sutton-in-Ashfield.

[1] Until 1823 they were used solely to make plain net, working on a 60 inch beam at 80 motions per minute [2] In 1828 an improvement was made to drive the bobbin carriage at intervals, thus leaving time for 'shogging' the guide bars between each movement.

[3] The number of Leavers in use was dependent on the market and during periods of depression or cotton shortage many frames were broken up for their iron content.

The use of Raschel machines, noted for being better for artificial fibres increased in the 1970s and, with fine polyesters, the two products have converged.

The US Tariff Act of 1909 provided free entry for Leavers machines, during a 19 month window from 6 August 1909 to 31 December 1910.

[5] The 'twist-hands' were mainly emigrants from the lace making areas of France and England, as operating the machine is a complex process to learn.

The Amalgamated Lace Operators of America, Leavers Section considered a three year apprenticeship to be the minimum and longer to be fully effective.

[6][7] A 120 inches (300 cm) machine will weigh 17 tons and have 40,000 moving parts and carry between 12,000 and 50,000 threads.

There are four types of yarn used in Leavers machine The finishing processes are clipping, scalloping, drawing, cutting, hand cutting, cloth looking and mending and the familiar textile processes such as bleaching, dyeing, stretching to width, drying, folding and packing.