Missouri River

More than ten major groups of Native Americans populated the watershed, with most leading a nomadic lifestyle and dependent on enormous bison herds that roamed through the Great Plains.

[24] With more than 170,000 square miles (440,000 km2) under the plow, the Missouri River watershed includes roughly one-fourth of all the agricultural land in the United States, providing more than a third of the country's wheat, flax, barley, and oats.

[17] The Missouri's drainage basin has highly variable weather and rainfall patterns, Overall, the watershed is defined by a continental climate with warm, wet summers and harsh, cold winters.

[49] Among rivers of North America as a whole, the Missouri is thirteenth largest, after the Mississippi, Mackenzie, St. Lawrence, Ohio, Columbia, Niagara, Yukon, Detroit, St. Clair, Fraser, Slave, and Koksoak.

[7] The Rocky Mountains of southwestern Montana at the headwaters of the Missouri River first rose in the Laramide Orogeny, a mountain-building episode that occurred from around 70 to 45 million years ago (the end of the Mesozoic through the early Cenozoic).

[63][64][65] This Laramide uplift caused the sea to retreat and laid the framework for a vast drainage system of rivers flowing from the Rocky and Appalachian Mountains, the predecessor of the modern-day Mississippi watershed.

The lowest major Cenozoic unit, the White River Formation, was deposited between roughly 35 and 29 million years ago[70][71] and consists of claystone, sandstone, limestone, and conglomerate.

[75] Immediately before the Quaternary Ice Age, the Missouri River was likely split into three segments: an upper portion that drained northwards into Hudson Bay,[76][77] and middle and lower sections that flowed eastward down the regional slope.

As the lakes rose, the water in them often spilled across adjacent local drainage divides, creating now-abandoned channels and coulees including the Shonkin Sag, 100 miles (160 km) long.

According to the writings of early colonists, some of the major tribes along the Missouri River included the Otoe, Missouria, Omaha, Ponca, Dakota, Lakota, Arikara, Hidatsa, Mandan, Assiniboine, Gros Ventres and Blackfeet.

[91] A large cluster of walled Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara villages situated on bluffs and islands of the river was home to thousands, and later served as a market and trading post used by early French and British explorers and fur traders.

[102] Bourgmont had in fact been in trouble with the French colonial authorities since 1706, when he deserted his post as commandant of Fort Detroit after poorly handling an attack by the Ottawa that resulted in thirty-one deaths.

However, this ended after news of incursions by trappers working for the Hudson's Bay Company in the upper Missouri River watershed was brought back following an expedition by Jacques D'Eglise in the early 1790s.

At the Mandan villages in North Dakota, they forcefully expelled several British traders, and while talking to the populace they pinpointed the location of the Yellowstone River, which was called Roche Jaune ("Yellow Rock") by the French.

[108][110] In 1795, the young United States and Spain signed Pinckney's Treaty, which recognized American rights to navigate the Mississippi River and store goods for export in New Orleans.

Despite the demise of the once-prosperous trade, however, its legacy led to the opening of the American West and a flood of settlers, farmers, ranchers, adventurers, hopefuls, financially bereft, and entrepreneurs took their place.

[128] The river roughly defined the American frontier in the 19th century, particularly downstream from Kansas City, where it takes a sharp eastern turn into the heart of the state of Missouri, an area known as the Boonslick.

An early expedition led by Robert Stuart from 1812 to 1813 proved the Platte impossible to navigate by the dugout canoes they used, let alone the large sidewheelers and sternwheelers that would later ply the Missouri in increasing numbers.

This resulted in frequent raids, massacres and armed conflicts, leading to the federal government creating multiple treaties with the Plains tribes, which generally involved establishing borders and reserving lands for the indigenous.

[137][138] Conflicts between natives and settlers over the opening of the Bozeman Trail in the Dakotas, Wyoming and Montana led to Red Cloud's War, in which the Lakota and Cheyenne fought against the U.S. Army.

[156] However, Fort Peck only controls runoff from 11 percent of the Missouri River watershed, and had little effect on a severe snowmelt flood that struck the lower basin three years later.

[163] The flooding of lands along the Missouri River heavily impacted Native American groups whose reservations included fertile bottomlands and floodplains, especially in the arid Dakotas where it was some of the only good farmland they had.

In the early decades before man controlled the river's flow, its sketchy rises and falls and its massive amounts of sediment, which prevented a clear view of the bottom, wrecked some 300 vessels.

The large reservoirs of the Mainstem System help provide a dependable flow to maintain the navigation channel year-round, and are capable of halting most of the river's annual freshets.

The Upper Missouri, roughly encompassing the area within Montana, Wyoming, southern Alberta and Saskatchewan, and North Dakota, comprises mainly semiarid shrub-steppe grasslands with sparse biodiversity because of Ice Age glaciations.

[211] The Middle Missouri ecoregion, extending through Colorado, southwestern Minnesota, northern Kansas, Nebraska, and parts of Wyoming and Iowa, has greater rainfall and is characterized by temperate forests and grasslands.

Because of the low use of the shipping channel in the lower Missouri maintained by the USACE, it is now considered feasible to remove some of the levees, dikes, and wing dams that constrict the river's flow, thus allowing it to naturally restore its banks.

[223][224] These reaches exhibit islands, meanders, sandbars, underwater rocks, riffles, snags, and other once-common features of the lower river that have now disappeared under reservoirs or have been destroyed by channeling.

[227][228] In north-central Montana, some 1,100,000 acres (4,500 km2) along over 125 miles (201 km) of the Missouri River, centering on Fort Peck Lake, comprise the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge.

[229] The wildlife refuge consists of a native northern Great Plains ecosystem that has not been heavily affected by human development, except for the construction of Fort Peck Dam.

View of a deep blue lake surrounded by low mountains
Holter Lake , a reservoir on the upper Missouri River
The sun low over the horizon over a body of water surrounded by dark vegetation
The Missouri in North Dakota , which was the furthest upstream that French explorers traveled on the river
A river flows past grass-covered banks, trees are in the midground
The Yellowstone River , the fifth longest tributary of the Missouri, which it joins in North Dakota
Aerial view of farms and a power station in a rural area partly inundated by a river that has overflowed its banks
Nebraska's Fort Calhoun Nuclear Generating Station was inundated when the Missouri River flooded in 2011
Top down view of two rivers merging, one dark and clear and the other light with clouds of sediment
High silt content makes the Missouri River (left) noticeably lighter than the Mississippi River (right) at their confluence north of St. Louis .
Painting showing a village on a bluff above a river
Karl Bodmer , A Mandan Village , c. 1840–1843
Painting of a group of Native Americans surrounding and fighting with explorers
Massacre of the Villasur expedition , painted c. 1720
An early map of western North America
Map of western North America drawn by Lewis and Clark
Painting of two figures and a cat on a boat in a placid body of water
Fur Traders on Missouri River , painted by George Caleb Bingham c. 1845
Fort Clark on the Missouri in February 1834, painted by Karl Bodmer
Boatmen on the Missouri c. 1846
Painting of a fort surrounded by tepees on the bank of a river curving around a series of bluffs
Karl Bodmer, Fort Pierre and the Adjacent Prairie , c. 1833, – the river, river bluffs and floodplain are depicted around the fort settlement
Front view of a dam releasing water through its spillways
Holter Dam , a run-of-the-river power generation dam on the upper Missouri, shortly after completion in 1918
View of an explosion atop a dam in a flooding river
Black Eagle Dam is dynamited in 1908 to save Great Falls from the flood wave caused by the failure of Hauser Dam
Map showing major dams and reservoirs in the Missouri River basin
Map showing major features of the Pick–Sloan Plan ; other dams and their reservoirs are denoted by triangles
Aerial view of a large earthfill dam with its reservoir on the left and background, surrounded by brownish hills
Fort Peck Dam , the uppermost dam of the Missouri River Mainstem System
Painting of a steamboat stranded on a sandbar in the middle of a swift-flowing river
Painting of the steamboat Yellowstone , one of the earliest commercial vessels to run on the river, circa 1833. The dangerous currents in the river caused the ship to run aground on a sandbar in this illustration.
The Far West is typical of the shallow-draft steamboats used to navigate the Missouri River. Famed captain and pilot Grant Marsh set several speed records, including one taking wounded soldiers from the surviving segments of Custer's Black Hills Expedition to get medical care. [ 188 ] [ 189 ]
A barge travels North on the Missouri River at Highway 364 in Saint Charles, Missouri
Side view of a dam surrounded by green hills under a clear sky
Gavins Point Dam at Yankton, South Dakota , is the uppermost obstacle to navigation from the mouth on the Missouri today.
Aerial view of a brownish river winding through an agricultural valley
The Missouri River near New Haven, Missouri , looking upstream – note the riprap wing dam protruding into the river from the left to direct its flow into a narrower channel
View of two rivers meeting in the middle of an industrial area
The Missouri River at the confluence with the Floyd River in Sioux City, Iowa , near the upper most navigable reach of the river today
Map showing the three freshwater ecoregions of the Missouri River basin
Freshwater ecoregions of the Missouri basin
Missouri River as it flows through Great Falls, Montana
View of the confluence of two rivers in an agricultural area
Agricultural fields dominate most of the former floodplain , including this area around the Missouri's confluence with the Nishnabotna River in western Missouri.
View of a river winding past a sandbar with people on the shore
Part of the Missouri National Recreational River , a 98-mile (158 km) preserved stretch of the Missouri on the border of South Dakota and Nebraska