Punta San Matteo

The easiest approach and the normal route starts from the Gavia Pass side with a good access road from Bormio.

An alternative option is to start from the same place but, instead of climbing up the glacier, walk in the direction of the Bivacco Battaglione Ortles which is at 3122 m of elevation, there is no guardian and it is always open.

You can stay the night in the Bivacco and then follow the ridge route to the summit of Punta San Matteo.

The mentioned Rifugio A. Berni is the most convenient place if one wants to climb the mountain directly from the road.

There is also Rifugio Bonetta directly on the Gavia Pass with plenty of free parking space around.