From the 1930s through the 1950s, the original Quaglino's was popular among the British aristocracy, including the royal family, many of whom were regulars, and was a haunt of London's café society.

[1] Giovanni "John" and his brother Ernesto "Ernest" Quaglino were immigrants from Piedmont, Italy,[2] probably from Riva presso Chieri[3] or Refrancore, Asti.

John started Quaglino's in the basement of the St. James's Palace Hotel (later the Meurice) on nearby Bury Street, under the patronage of Lady Furness, and with his brother Ernest as headwaiter.

[4][5] The defence argued that the words could not apply to Sovrani as his restaurant had already closed by the time they appeared and Quaglino's only brother was not married.

The epitome of the suave host, he flattered his regulars by name but was neither overly familiar nor obsequious, contriving that fine line – between due deference and professional courtesy that proved irresistible.

[8][2] Lord Forte recounted that John Quaglino treated royalty "with respect but without fuss", but also made "every guest... feel that he was the only person who mattered", regardless of rank.

[9] Queen Elizabeth II dined at Quaglino's in 1956, making her the first reigning British monarch to eat at a public restaurant.

It wasn't an exercise in nostalgia though; it was a thoroughly modern take culminating in the excitingly impious altar dedicated to worshipping crustacea.The restaurant became a staple of the BBC television sitcom Absolutely Fabulous.