Ray Genet

Ray Genet (July 27, 1931 – October 2, 1979), often referred to by the nickname Pirate, was a Swiss-born American mountaineer.

He was the first guide on North America's highest mountain, Alaska's Denali (Mount McKinley).

The expedition is described in Minus 148 Degrees: The First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley (1970) by Art Davidson.

[1] Genet died on October 2, 1979, while descending Mount Everest with his fellow climber Hannelore Schmatz, succumbing to hypothermia in the night.

[2] The group was running low on bottled oxygen, and Schmatz died trying to get down to South Col with Sungdare later that day.