Sara Lee Corporation did not renew Gossard's license and redesigned the push-up style for the reintroduction of the Wonderbra to the U.S. market in 1994.
In its native Canada, however, the brand promotes the functional qualities of its products, a departure from the strategy that made Wonderbra the top-seller in the 1970s.
He created a small sewing shop in the heart of Montreal to make a well-fitting, good quality bra in the mid-priced range (from $1.00 to $1.50 retail).
As part of this effort, he travelled to New York City, met with Israel Pilot and licensed the Wonder-Bra trademark and diagonal slash patent.
[6] From 1939 to 1955, Canadian Lady marketed several lines of intimate apparel including girdles, panties, slips, swimsuits, and brassieres under the Wonderbra brand.
In 1952, Canadian Lady launched Petal Burst with anticipation of tough negotiations with D'Amour—Israel Pilot's U.S. company—around the expiration of the patent in 1955.
D'Amour no longer had leverage with a patent, but still demanded that Canadian Lady stop using the designs, and return the pattern templates.
Moe Nadler ignored this demand and instead successfully acquired the Canadian, European, and Asian rights to the Wonderbra trademarks.
By the mid-1960s Canadian Lady was exporting and licensing the Wonderbra line to Western Europe, Australia, South Africa, Israel and the West Indies.
In the late 1950s Moe Nadler started travelling to Europe to find new styles to bring to the Canadian market.
In 1960, Wonderbra introduced a lacy, half push-up bra described in Europe as Pigeonnant (meaning "pigeon-breasted" in French).
In 1961 Nadler directed Louise Poirier to develop a deeply plunged, laced push-up design, numbered the 1300.
The feminist movement—cultured by thought leaders like Betty Friedan and Germaine Greer—questioned the mores that defined women's roles and appearance.
Changes in fashion trends, such as pantyhose and the rise of the miniskirt, rendered the girdle unattractive and obsolete to a generation of women.
[12] While the intimate apparel industry fretted about bra-burning as a precursor to the decline of all foundation garment sales, women reserved their animosity for their girdles.
Canadian Lady's management knew that girdles were out, but bras would remain an essential part of women's wardrobes.
Younger women (aged 15 to 20) regarded their bras as an enhancement to their sexuality but were not interested in a heavily structured garment.
"[15] In 1974, they introduced a new line of brassieres for teens called Dici (by Wonderbra), and invented new hot fabric molding technologies to shape the cup.
Market research showed that women did not want girdles advertised on television—girdles were seen as armor against sex, while bras provided a means of attraction.
The voice-over and jingle featured a man's voice and the commercial showed an actual woman's torso naked except for a bra.
All other television ads before this era showed brassieres on a manikin or a dressmaker's dummy to promote the functional features of the product.
[24] The brand was positioned to young women as a more natural alternative to the heavily structured bras worn by their mothers.
Several factors might have contributed to this boom including "an article in British Vogue on the return of the padded bra, a Vivienne Westwood-inspired fad for corsetry and that Gaultier driven yearning for underwear as outerwear".
The most famous campaign poster presented model Eva Herzigová in a Wonderbra gazing down at her breasts with the caption "Hello Boys", addressing male admirers.
Although the model was already being manufactured in Montreal by Canadelle, Playtex executives decided to take a year to redesign the bra for the U.S. market.
Although Playtex promoted the authenticity of their "One and Only Wonderbra", the rapid introduction of competitive products meant that the overall U.S. market benefited from a 43% increase in push-up bra sales by the end of 1994.
The Wonderbra trademark is the property of Canadelle Limited Partnership of Canada, which is a wholly owned subsidiary of HanesBrands Inc. HanesBrands Inc. owns the license to sell and distribute apparel products under the Wonderbra trademark in all countries except the member states of the European Union, several other European nations and South Africa; in these other markets, an affiliate of Sun Capital Partners owns the license under the Dim Branded Apparel group which is headquartered in Paris.
[39] During the 1994 reintroduction, it was thought that an international group of women models as spokespersons - they were called "spokesmodels" – would enhance marketing.