Zari

[1] This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily silk, to make intricate patterns and elaborate designs of embroidery called zardozi.

Zari was popularised during the Moghul era; the port of Surat was linked to the Meccan pilgrimage route which served as a major factor for re-introducing this ancient craft in India.

It is manufactured by winding or wrapping (covering) a flattened metallic strip made from pure gold, silver or slit metallised polyester film, on a core yarn, usually of pure silk, viscose, cotton, nylon, polyester, P.P., mono/multi filament, wire, etc.

In ancient times, when precious metals were cheaply and easily available,[citation needed] only real zari threads were produced.

Due to industrial revolution and invention of electroplating process, imitation techniques came into existence to cut the cost of precious metals.

It then undergoes a similar process, except in this case, they are electroplated with silver and then wound around the base yarn, and reeled.

Surat in the state of Gujarat on the west coast of India is the world's largest producer of all types of zari namely threads, cantile, laces, ribbons, borders, trims, fringes, edges, cordonettes, cords, etc.

Additionally, there are approximately 100,000 child laborers producing Zari in India, sometimes (but not always) under conditions of debt bondage or otherwise unpaid work.

' Banarasi sari ' from Varanasi (Banaras), silk and gold-wrapped silk yarn with supplementary weft brocade (zari)
Zari Work
Sari from India (probably Benares), late 19th or early 20th century, silk with metallic thread (Zari)