Broderie anglaise

Broderie anglaise is characterized by patterns composed of round or oval holes, called eyelets, which are cut out of the fabric, then bound with overcast or buttonhole stitches.

[1] The patterns, often depicting flowers, leaves, vines, or stems, are further delineated by simple embroidery stitches made on the surrounding material.

Beginning in the 1870s, the designs and techniques of broderie anglaise could be copied by the Swiss hand-embroidery and schiffli embroidery machines.

[2] Chikankari, first recorded in the 16th century in Persia and India, involves intricate needlework with openwork and embroidery.

It has been characterized as "lace, but scaled-up" making it more robust and suited to daytime wear, and less associated with the fine, lacy look of lingerie.

Boy's frock, white plain weave cotton with broderie anglaise, probably English, c. 1855 , Los Angeles County Museum of Art
Broderie anglaise cuff , detail from Broken Vows by Philip Hermogenes Calderon