[3][4] This fine thread was one reason preventing mechanization of the process of making Brussels lace, as well as the production of it in other regions, as it could not be bought anywhere else.

[4] Brussels lace started to be produced in the 15th century,[4] and was first explicitly mentioned in England in a list of presents given to Princess Mary for New Years 1543.

The toilé can be of two types, the standard woven texture like a piece of fabric, or a more open version with more of the appearance of a netted réseau.

In Brussels lace, instead of a cordonnet, the pattern is edged with open stitches, which are then picked up to form the réseau.

[3] The first step was to spin the flax thread, which was then given to the lace-makers who made the pattern, which was generally of flowers.

[4] When the English prohibition ended in 1699, Brussels lace gained popularity once more.

From this point on, the handmade réseau was only made upon request, and the designs were appliqued directly onto the machine-made net.

It was named after the Duchess of Brabant, Marie Henriette of Austria who was a supporter of the lace production.

These first nettings were produced in the hope it could save time so that lacemakers could be able to finish work faster.

It is the last handmade lace work that is still fine enough to be used for wedding veil and christening gowns.

However most people agree that these two modern lace making techniques require a great deal of skill and handwork (80%) to be realized.