Venetian ceruse
It was favoured by the European aristocracy due to its high quality[5] and most notably, Venetian ceruse was thought to have been used quite frequently by Elizabeth I of England.
It was thought that Elizabeth I's death may have been caused by chronic lead poisoning and the combined use of other dangerous chemicals present in her cosmetics, such as mercury and arsenic.
[13] Apart from its adverse health effects on the human body, white lead had many qualities that made it a valuable ingredient for use in various cosmetic products during the 16th century.
The presence of lead compounds in Venetian ceruse allowed it to be dissolved in water to form a thick paste that could be easily absorbed by the body through the skin.
[15][10] When mixed with vinegar, the white lead composition of Venetian ceruse had a cooling and drying effect[15] that would suck moisture from the skin of the individual's face and prevent inflammation.
They had presence in blush products for application on the cheeks and were used in lip stains, by combining red pigments such as vermilion or sandalwood[15] and cinnabar, which contained more harmful compounds such as mercury sulphide.
[11] The process of manufacturing Venetian ceruse involved carefully placing lead sheets into clay pots partially filled with vinegar.
[15][20] It was not until the end of the 18th century that scientific studies officially concluded the severity of health problems caused by the presence of lead in cosmetic products.
[13] More common symptoms of lead poisoning include feeling nauseous, experiencing abdominal pain, high blood pressure and reduced fertility for both men and women.
It is suspected that the hair loss experienced by many women during the 16th century gave rise to the Elizabethan beauty ideal of possessing a high forehead.
The reason Venetian ceruse was favoured over other 16th century cosmetic powders such as starch, alabaster and crushed mother-of-pearl, was predominantly due to its ease of application and ability to adhere to the skin easily.
[13] These blemishes could only be concealed by applying several more layers[27] of the product itself, creating a cycle where women were dependent on Venetian ceruse for vanity on a daily basis.
[20] It was thought that Elizabeth I of England may have contracted smallpox in 1562, which left scarring on her skin and brought about her later faithful use of Venetian ceruse to hide the blemishes that remained.
[11] The ideal beauty standards during the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance[13] saw women aiming to achieve a white complexion contrasted by bright red cheeks and lips.
Having fair, clear skin free from blemishes was therefore very highly sought after as it was considered to be a social indicator of an individual in good health and fertility for women.
[20][13] This was because labour workers who performed outdoor work under direct sunlight often had tanned skin, whereas individuals in higher positions within society had the luxury of staying indoors and did not engage in employment.
