This phenomenon is associated with designers Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Karl Lagerfeld, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and Helmut Lang.
[5] In the early 1990s, Harold Koda and Richard Martin introduced the concept of fashion deconstruction in the Infra-Apparel exhibition catalog,[6] where "deconstructivism" was described as a unified trend of the 1990s.
It is believed that the term "deconstructivism" in relation to fashion began to be used after an architectural exhibition in 1988 at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
[7] The work that summarized the basic principles of deconstructivism in the 1990s can be considered the text by Alison Gill "Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-Assembled Clothes".
Gill defined deconstruction in fashion as a term to describe "garments on a runway that are unfinished, coming apart, recycled, transparent or grunge".
[7] The exhibition presented works by then little-known artists Rem Koolhaas, Zaha Hadid, Frank Gehry, Peter Eisenman, Daniel Libeskind and Bernard Tschumi.
Fashionable deconstructivism is presented as a rethinking of the philosophical method formed by representatives of the European and Yale schools.
[5] It became a form of criticism of standard commercial clothing and implied the possibility of a system focused on a philosophical prototype.