Kohl (cosmetics)

Kohl is an eye cosmetic, traditionally made by crushing stibnite (antimony sulfide) for use similar to that of charcoal in mascara.

Kohl has been worn traditionally since the Naqada III era (c. 3100 BCE) by Egyptians of all social classes, originally as protection against eye ailments.

[3] Galena (lead sulfide) eye paint (later termed Kohl in Arabic from the Akkadian word for the cosmetic) was widely applied in ancient Egypt.

Although found locally, both black galena and green malachite were also imported from nearby regions in Western Asia, Coptos, and the Land of Punt.

[7][8][9][10] Additionally, the pioneering Muslim scholar ibn Abi Shaybah described in a legal compilation how to apply kohl to the eye, as narrated by earlier authorities.

This form of using kohl on the face originated from the Arabian Peninsula, and was introduced in the seventh century to North Africa.

[citation needed] For women, kohl or black-henna is applied to the face as well in a similar manner as that practiced by communities in North Africa.

At the same time, a number of research studies and reports have also been published refuting any such links to increased blood lead levels upon kohl application.

[19] A group of researchers in China tried to find some scientific basis of this claimed property of lead sulfide (galena) relating to absorption of sun rays when applied into the eyes in the form of kohl.

[20] The authors reported the ultraviolet (UV) absorption spectra of a thin film of lead sulfide prepared on an indium tin oxide (ITO) substrate.

Kohl samples from Oman and Cairo, analyzed using X-ray powder diffraction and scanning electron microscopy, were found to contain galena.

Complications of lead poisoning include anemia, growth retardation, low IQ, convulsions, and, in severe cases, death.

These banned products are different from lead-free cosmetics that use the term "kohl" only to describe its shade or color, rather than its actual ingredients.

In January 2010, French researchers reported that the particular heavy eye makeup that ancient Egyptians wore may have had medical benefits.

At submicromolar concentrations, the specially-made lead compounds can elicit overproduction of nitric oxide (NO), which in turn can trigger an enhancement of the immune response.

The widespread use of kohl across the Mediterranean and the Middle East attests to its ability to protect the eye from infectious disease and as well as being used as a cosmetic.