The use of lipstick dates back to early civilizations such as Sumer and the Indus Valley Civilisation, and was popularized in the Western world in the 16th century.
Some lipsticks contain traces of toxic materials, such as lead and PFAS, which prompted health concerns and regulation.
Ancient Sumerian and Indus Valley men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago.
[2] Women in the ancient Indus Valley civilization have used rectangular pieces of ochre with beveled ends as lipstick.
Throughout most of the 19th century, the obvious use of cosmetics was not considered acceptable in Britain for respectable women, and it was associated with marginalised groups such as actors and prostitutes.
An employee of Aime and Gabriel Guerlain was walking in a street and happened upon the store of a candlemaker, whose wax and colored pigments gave him a eureka moment.
Seeing the candlemaker's tools gave the Guerlain employee the “mad” idea of creating a waxy, lip cosmetic as a stick.
Carmine dye was extracted from cochineal, scale insects native to Mexico and Central America which live on cactus plants.
By 1912 fashionable American women had come to consider lipstick acceptable, though an article in the New York Times advised on the need to apply it cautiously.
[24] By the 1950s, movie actresses Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor helped bring back dark red lips.
M•A•C cosmetics continues to release limited edition and highly collectible lipsticks in a wide range of colors and finishes, including unusual hues of violets, blues, and greens.
[28][29][30] Author Poppy King believes that Madonna "ushered red lipstick back in as a symbol of strength" and of "glamorous rebellion".
[31] Upon its release the "Russian Red" became a bestseller,[32] and still one of the best-selling lipsticks of MAC according to an article published in 2020 by Vogue Spain.
[33] In 2012, Make Up For Ever created the "Aqua Rouge/Iconic Red" (shade #8) for Madonna to wear on her the MDNA Tour,[34] and celebrities like Taylor Swift used it according to fashion-targeted magazines such as Elle.
[35] Another form of lip color, a wax-free, semi-permanent liquid formula, was invented in the 1990s by the Lip-Ink International company.
Lipstick also has many variations including liquid, lip balms, glosses, crayons, pencils, liners, palettes, and stains.
[citation needed] The term "lipstick lesbian" became popular when used by writer Deborah Bergman, a reporter for the Los Angeles Times.
Lipsticks get their colors from a variety of pigments and lake dyes including, but not limited to bromo acid, D&C Red No.
Shimmery or frost lipstick may contain mica, silica, and synthetic pearl particles, such as bismuth oxychloride, to give them a glittery or shimmering shine.
[7] Lead and other trace metals may be found in many lipsticks; these occur naturally and can accidentally contaminate other ingredients during production.
In 2007, a study by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics[48] released a report called "A Poison Kiss"[49] that tested 33 popular brands of lipstick for lead content.
[51][52] In 2009, the FDA released the follow-up study[53] to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics' report, which found lead was present in all 20 samples tested.
[50] In 2011, the FDA conducted an expanded survey[55] on its previous study, which broadened the testing to 400 lipsticks that were available on the U.S. market at the time.
Trace amounts of lead can contaminate raw ingredients, specifically mineral based additives, as this element occurs naturally in soil, water, and air.
[62] A 2021 study tested 231 makeup and personal care products and found organic fluorine, an indicator of PFAS, in more than half of the samples.
High levels of fluorine were most commonly identified in waterproof mascara (82% of brands tested), foundations (63%), and liquid lipstick (62%).
[63] Since PFAS compounds are highly mobile, they are readily absorbed through human skin and through tear ducts, and such products on lips are often unwittingly ingested.
[65] Traces of lipstick, cosmetics, nail polish, or other "smears" could be found left on drinking cups, glasses, cigarette butts, and tissue papers and may all be significant forensic evidence in the investigation of a crime, especially in cases such as sexual assault, homicide, and in government- or corporate-related corruption and controversies.
By comparing the composition of a lipstick smear with that of a victim or a witness, forensic scientists can demonstrate direct or indirect proof of contact or a relationship between the plaintiff and the defendant.
Also, it is sometimes possible to extract saliva DNA from the lipstick print which might link a suspect to their presence at the crime scene.